KANSAI YAMAMOTO - AND ‘婆娑羅’ BASARA THE ACT OF NOT CARING
Bowie in Kansai’s iconic TOKYO POP suit shot by Sukita Masayoshi
Credited for being one of the founding fathers of contemporary Japanese fashion, Kansai Yamamoto is no stranger to the world of design. Although his name is not associated with what is now called ‘the big 3,’ including Issey Miyake, Yohji Yamamoto, and Rei Kawakubo, who led an avant-garde utilitarian fashion movement in the 80s, Kansai’s powerful structural garments and vivid color palette cannot be overlooked.
Most notable for his costume creations and close friendship with entertainer David Bowie during the 70s, Kansai’s approach and the philosophy behind his clothing is what sets him apart from the average ‘Japanese designer’. His first runway show held in London in 1971 was described by some as ‘the show of the year … a spectacular coup de théâtre’ and an event that would later become the catalyst to his successful career spanning a period of over 4 decades.
Showstopper outfit from the KANSAI IN LONDON show held in 1971. An image of ‘Berabo’ a talisman character that sticks out its tongue originating from traditional Kabuki theatre can be seen on the garment.
Born Nobuyoshi Yamamoto in Yokohama during the early 40s, Kansai had a difficult childhood growing up. Following his parent’s divorce at a young age and abandonment from his father, he was sent to live with his grandparents in Saga where he would move schools constantly. This nomadic-like lifestyle would come to a halt however, when he would rekindle with his father during his youth, leading Kansai to work for him at his sewing company, gaining exposure to the world of fashion. His passion for clothing would solidify after being inspired by the clothing worn throughout the film ‘Plein Soleil’ featuring Alain Delon directed by René Clément; a pivotal point in his life when he decided he wanted to become a seamstress. Although he would enroll in an English literature department at Nihon University, it was only a matter of time when he decided to drop out to pursue his dreams of making it as a fashion designer. Knocking on doors in order to secure an apprenticeship, he would finally get a job assisting in the atelier for Junko Koshino and Hisashi Koshino both emerging young designers and classmates of Takada Kenzo at Bunka Fashion College. Unlike his counterparts however, Kansai’s clothing was always unapologetically bold and colorful, filled with bright prints and imagery that stole the limelight and often times shocked the viewer. This aesthetic unfortunately did not appeal to the eyes of the average Japanese; too vivid and unrealistic for a country that appreciated simplicity and monotone color schemes. ‘Over the top’ and ‘flamboyant’ were sadly terms that did not ring a positive connotation to the people in Japan and Kansai’s designs were rejected by the community.
This different approach and philosophy towards aesthetics and design is now commonly known as ‘婆娑羅’ BASARA meaning ‘excessive and over the top’. In an interview with the Asahi newspaper, he states ‘My aesthetic is similar to that of the Toshogu temple in Nikko; vibrant and powerful, the polar opposite of Japanese culture. This is why I want people around the world to see that there is a different face to our country, a much more extravagant and energetic side.
“IN JAPAN THE WORD BASARA MEANS TO DRESS FREELY WITH A STYLISH EXTRAVAGANCE. BASARA IS THE OPPOSITE OF THE JAPANESE WABI-SABI AESTHETIC, WHICH IS UNDERPLAYED AND MODEST; IT IS COLOURFUL AND FLAMBOYANT AND IT LIES AT THE HEART OF MY DESIGN..”
Although Kansai was faced with disinterest from his Japanese peers, he was not disheartened in the slightest. Believing that his designs would be recognized for all its glory elsewhere, he would take a leap of faith and hop on a plane to London, where he envisioned a brighter future. This shift in environment would turn out to be the best decision for his career, allowing him to get his first big break.
Kansai with Bowie during his dress fitting for his shows
Kansai’s first fashion show was held at Victoria and Albert Hall in 1971. Not only was he the first ever Japanese designer to host a show in London, turning heads and causing a disruption in the fashion scene, his designs would also be featured in Harpers and Queens, a leading influential fashion magazine at the time. David Bowie was one of many who became familiar with the artist due to this feature. In search of clothing created by the man himself, Bowie would convince his stylist at the time to bring Kansai over to design a number of costumes for him. After being pestered on the phone by her in the middle of the night, Kansai was finally convinced enough to travel to New York City where he would watch David Bowie perform live at the coveted Radio City Music Hall. This was the first performance that Kansai had seen by Bowie but it brought him to tears. This encounter would be the start of a strong bond and an ever-lasting friendship. Kansai would go on to create four of the most iconic looks for the ‘Aladdin Sane’ tour; the same tour that birthed the iconic TOKYO POP outfit, a black jumpsuit that used a technique called ‘hikiniku’ where two stagehands helped Bowie quickly change outfits during his stage performances, often leaving the audience in awe and wanting more. Kansai later described his encounter with Bowie to Vogue Japan as ‘a chemical reaction, almost like falling in love all over again.’
One of Kansai’s iconic outfits from his first collection taken from a page out of Harper’s and Queens magazine
Bowie wearing one of Kansai’s designs during his Aladdin Sane tour
Later on in his career, Kansai would go on to produce and host his ‘super-shows’; a dynamic performance that combined fashion with music, dance, and entertainment. These super shows would be hosted not only in Japan but in other parts of the world, providing the audience a glimpse into the artist’s creative direction that not only experimented with fashion but other artistic mediums. Although unfortunately passing away at the age of 76 due to leukemia, his legacy lives on through his daughter Mirai as well as the designs that influenced and touched the hearts of many. Thank you Kansai-san for the joy that you spread through design and dedication to a brighter world. You taught us that nothing on this earth is ever too loud, too outrageous, too over the top or extravagant.
Photograph from one of Kansai’s supershows merging fashion, music, and entertainment
Written by Ayana Waki