IDEN STUDIOS: Mysticism through Fashion
Berlin has long been a melting pot of creative energy, fusing various cutting-edge cultures, alongside its rich history and tradition. The newest creation for the city to give birth to is IDEN Studios. A fashion label that is endlessly enigmatic and mysterious, while retaining its unique sense of playfulness. From spiritual imagery, occult-like iconography and lush dark tones; IDEN Studios is definitely a brand for everyone to keep on their radar in the near future.
GATA sat down to talk to designer Moritz about the deep, dark and wonderful influences behind his designs. From the emotional core that lies in his clothing, making each piece a personal work, to the educational nature of the internet and the sacred essence of collectible cards; this self-taught artist, formed through a love of magic and mysticism shows us that limits of creativity, are bound only by our own wonder.
Hi Moritz, could you tell us a little bit about yourself and your background? How did you end up in Berlin making clothes?
Of course! As a child, I have always loved dressing up and making art. I preferred playing with mystical toys too and, whilst I still enjoy all these things even now, I remember being very immersed in online culture. In school, I always wanted to dress in these cool clothes that I saw online but could never quite afford, so I started making them myself and found out pretty soon that you can basically really learn anything on the internet. So from here, I started learning how to sew, use photoshop etc.
What initially got you into fashion design? Have you always been interested in it?
After I started making clothes that I saw online, I pretty soon started making whatever I came up with myself. I had so many ideas and often times it was frustrating not being able to properly execute them. Then, when selling tie-dye T-shirts online wasn’t cutting it anymore, that was when I knew I had to leave for fashion school.
Your IDEN collectables are similar to trading card games; what was the inspiration behind creating these?
As I mentioned before I have always loved mystical toys and I felt like these trading cards were the pinnacle of flamboyance and individualism. Each one was different to the next one and they were so magical! I try to bring a little bit of this to IDEN as well. These cards aren’t just a throwaway. You’re supposed to hold onto them, cherish them and collect them.
How would you describe IDEN? What is the message you want to portray through your brand?
The most important thing to me in fashion is emotion. Fashion, just like art, thrives off of emotion. I want people to connect to my clothes in a way where they can appreciate them on more than one level. I want them to enjoy the products by wearing them, hanging them up on display or even just by appreciating them on a screen. I put so much of myself into my clothes and it always makes me happy when it translates and people somehow feel connected to my designs. I like to think that is what gives my clothes value.
Of the clothing that you've designed, which is your favourite and why?
I think I would have to say the recent blood oath dress. I am also very grateful for the response it has gotten and it makes me so happy that people feel the way they do about my work.
You portray your love for futuristic 3D design in your garments but still retain a sense of traditional art. Is this “zeitgeist” a way to connect past and present?
Definitely. I am very much inspired by all things intangible; The spiritual, the digital and the emotional. I like to use art as a medium to communicate in a very cryptic manner and the digital nature of print, textile design and 3D art has always fascinated me in many different ways. The endless possibilities it provides somehow brings me joy. Also, I think it is so interesting how we can be drawn to these virtual imitations of ourselves.
Are there any brands or designers that are exciting for you at the moment?
I am always looking out for what Charles Jeffrey has to offer! His work is very different to mine but the way in which he makes the “unwearable“ approachable is something I very much admire.
You are currently living in Berlin, an incredibly creative city; how does the city influence you personally?
I love it here. It has been the first place I have ever felt like I could be myself and bloom. I know, it sounds so cliché. There are definitely dark sides to Berlin as well. Hell! It is famous for its dark sides and whilst the city is not pretty to look at, for the most part, the people I have met here are incredible. So much beauty, difference, and room for individuality & creativity. The nightlife (esp. queer nightlife) is definitely the fuel of the city and it is where everything is happening and evolving. It has been very stagnant the last couple of months and that is why I am so excited for the club culture and nightlife to flourish again soon.
Would you like to move to anywhere new in the future?
London still sparks my interest I feel like it has a lot in common with Berlin in terms of diversity while being very different in things and opportunities it has to offer. Also: Rent!
What do we have to look forward to in the future from IDEN? Any cool collaborations or projects?
Since my first drop had such an incredible and overwhelming response, I am very much looking forward to launching more pieces on my webshop. I will also be starting to work on my graduate collection starting September. I have been looking forward to that project for years now! I am definitely excited about what is to come.
Love of cinema is a huge part of GATA. Do you have any movies that have influenced your designs or any film, in general, to recommend that you just love?
Great Question! - From an artistic standpoint my favourites are The Cremaster Cycle by Mathew Barney, Howl’s Moving Castle and A Clockwork Orange. All of them are extremely different in style but all of them entice me greatly, with their attention to detail and uniqueness in storytelling. My personal favourite however is Kill your Darlings. It is definitely not a cinematic masterpiece but it will forever have such a special place in my heart.