FEROCIOUS FEMININITY: MEET DILARA FINDIKOGLU
Dilara Revolution, Chapter 1: Send Girls to School. Photography by Ralph Whitehead
If you don't already know Istanbul-born, London-based designer Dilara Findikoglu then prepare to be sorted out! GATA readers are sure to become enamoured with Findikoglu's creations as each of her collections are steeped in the things we love: ferocious feminity, horror film references, punk and gothic subcultures and creation with the intention of transcending unjustly imposed societal barriers.
Findikoglu's designs are infused with inspiration from Islamic mythology, the occult, and blood-spattered films; translating her fantasy worlds into clothing that is truly otherworldly. Her central Saint Martins education has equipped her with the skills to create stunning outfits, but she never forgets to balance deep ideas with beautiful garments. This is her way of awakening people.
Dilara Findikoglu S/S 23 backstage Photographed by Harry Carr
Her collections are not just style exercises, but rather studies of ideology and historical periods, from queer and feminist theory to climate change. Findikoglu's references range from the 18th century to the 1970s, and she masterfully incorporates them into her designs, mixing subcultural references from her teenage years with ideas about how women have been treated in different societies. In Dilara Findikoglu's world, escapism and theatricality reign supreme. More is always more. Her message to women is clear: reclaim your power, reclaim your body, and claim your rightful place in the world.
The road to success was not easy for Findikoglu. She first had to convince her traditional parents to let her leave Turkey and attend central Saint Martins in London. Then, upon the approach of her graduation, her collection was not chosen for the final fashion show. In true rebel fashion, she staged a guerilla presentation on the streets instead, dubbing it "#encoreCSM." Design students who were not accepted to the official press show ran their lines in protest, and Findikoglu's clothing line has been all the more inspiring for it.
Dilara Findikoglu LFW17 Photo by Rachel Rogers
Her runway shows have become legendary for their theatricality and boundary-pushing designs, featuring everything from dramatic headpieces to leather corsets, and often incorporating elements of BDSM and fetish culture. Findikoglu's work has been hailed as anarchistic, her designs challenge traditional notions of femininity and beauty, and celebrate diversity and individuality. Her clothes are for those who don't want to blend in but rather make a statement.
Dilara Findikoglu's Fall 2023 collection, titled "Not a Man's Territory," was a triumphant call to arms for women to claim what is rightfully theirs: themselves. In presenting her collection as a "little dance of revolution" towards reclaiming ownership of the body, Findikoglu channelled the power of protests in Iran over the murder of Mahsa Amini, where countless women were killed by security forces or publicly executed for participating.
The Iranian women's bold defiance in cutting off their hair in the streets was a profound inspiration for Findikoglu, who turned their symbolic act into bralette tops and bustiers. By doing so, she affirms that women should control their bodies however they please. In another powerful act of protest, a model removed her yellow mohair skirt mid-catwalk in response to the continued objectification of Marilyn Monroe, Findikoglu's answer to the 2022 film "Blonde," which she candidly reported hating.
The collection's message was truly encapsulated by the show-stopping final look - a tight, dramatic dress featuring 200 Victorian knives that encased the body. This bold design represented the tremendous courage of the Dilara woman, as well as women worldwide, in their unwavering determination to stand up and say "enough is enough." It was a powerful battle cry, one that defiantly echoed through the audience and left a lasting impression
Front and Back of Knife dress Dilara Findikoglu SS23
Backstage Photo by: Rory James
Findikoglu's impact goes beyond just fashion, highlighted in her consistent usage of her platform to advocate for social justice and to support causes that are important to her. As Findikoglu continues to make her mark on the fashion world, it's clear that she's not afraid to take risks and push boundaries. Her designs may not be for everyone, but they are undoubtedly making an impact, challenging the status quo, paving the way for a more inclusive and diverse fashion industry.